Pic 1.
servomotor cable 1. |
Pic 2.
servomotor cable 2. |
Pic 3.
pulley housing cover. |
Pic 4.
pulley housing. |
Pic 5.
servomotor cover. |
Pic 6.
powervalve pulley attachment. |
Pic 7.
powervalve bush. |
Pic 8.
various bolts, screws, washers, |
Pic 9.
exhaust side powervalve cover. |
Pic 10.
picture showing how |
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Installation
Click an image to view enlarged photo.
Pic 11.
This pic shows the pegged closed (restricted)
powervalve cap.) |
Pic 12.
Remove centre bolt and then remove two hex cap
(allen key) bolts. Now remove valve cover which has the peg in, this peg fits into a notch in the brass valve bush, this will
probably all come out as one piece. |
Pic 13.
This shows the exhaust side valve cap.
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Pic 14.
Remove exhaust, remove hex cap bolt on valve cap.
The valve cap has an integral valve guide bush, so to remove it you need to slowly revolve it a little bit one way and then
the other until it slides out. |
Pic 15.
Place a piece of wood (like a piece of 28mm dowel)
up the exhaust port to wedge the powervalve in place. Undo the hex cap bolt which holds the two powervalve parts together.
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Pic 16.
Withdraw each half of the powervalve (don't drop
the metal locating dowels in the cylinder!) from the engine. |
Pic 17.
Clean all the black crap from the powervalve using
degreaser and a brass wire brush. Clean all the carbon deposits from inside the powervalve housing as well. Place the
powervalve bush on to left hand side of the powervalve along with the grease seal and wipe some CV (lithium) grease all round
it. Place it back in the engine.
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Pic 18.
Grease the other half of the powervalve and insert
in the engine. Look up the exhaust port to make sure the dowels meet up with the locating holes. |
Pic 19.
Put loctite on the powervalve bolt (the long thin one)
and using the piece of wood up the exhaust port tighten up the bolt (see spec in Haynes for all torque measurements) that holds
the powervalve together.
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Pic 20.
Spin the powervalve by hand, it should spin easily with no restrictions. |
Pic 21.
Bolt the servomotor to the frame using the metal
sleeves and rubber bushes. Join up the electrical connectors to the spare plugs usually under the tank (brown and black wires
to one plug and black and yellow wire to the bullet connector.
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Pic 22.
Bolt the pulley housing to the engine and connect the two cables to the servomotor. |
Pic 23.
Screw the cables adjusters into the relevant guides in
the pulley housing (1990 - 1997 dt125r cables go from servomotor guide 1 to pulley housing guide 1 and guide 2 to guide 2. 1997
onwards dt's go the opposite way, i.e guide 1 to guide 2 and guide 2 to guide 1) this is important! On 1990 -1997 dt125r the
cables cross over between the servomotor and the pulley housing. On the newer dt125r they do not cross.
Fit the pulley wheel over the diamond shaped end of the powervalve.
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Pic 24.
Using a 4mm drill or allen key lock the pulley in place
by lining the drill or allen key up with the hole in the engine casting. Fit the bolt through the pulley into the end of the
powervalve and tighten accordingly. Take out the allen key and using the adjusters turn the pulley until the marker is lined
up with the hole. Make sure both adjusters are tight and then loosen half a turn each and using the lock nut lock them in place.
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Pic 25.
Bolt the pulley housing cover on the pulley housing and pull the rubber sleeves over the adjusters.
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Pic 26.
Put your tank and your seat back on and your plastics and go and test it out.
The bike is no longer a 12bhp learner legal bike it is anywhere from 20 - 28bhp. I kid you not when I first tested out my bike
I whooped like a cowboy… wheelies easy in second and third gear, say no more. |
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